Some tips for planting seeds

Before planting seeds the soil should have some preparation. Remove debris from last year, leaves that have accumulated, and rake to smooth the surface. I sprinkle granular fertilizer on the soil and lightly work it in. Granular fertilizer also gets tossed on foundation plantings, asparagus beds and spring flowering shrubbery, there are no leaves yet so no burning of foliage. This time of year I plant seeds in two different ways. Seeds of plants that can tolerate some cold can be planted "as soon as soil can be worked," "two to three weeks before last frost" or "early spring" according to package directions. Usually I watch for predicted rainfall and let nature water in newly planted seeds. Sugar snap peas are scattered in the same area they grew last year as beneficial bacteria will be there. Once they have germinated, pea brush (leafless branches about 2-3 feet in length) will be poked into spots where no peas are coming up. Spinach is planted in a row at the edge of where squash will be planted later. By the time the squash needs the space, the spinach will be finished. A few varieties of spinach are grown, and recorded on the garden map, and they do have different characteristics. A row of spinach makes it easier to see where I have harvested outer leaves. Leek seeds are planted in a trench, they can be planted regularly also, then soil mounded up to form the longer white area used in cooking. Other members of the onion family like bunching onions, shallots and regular onions can also be planted at this time. Poppy seeds can be scattered or put in rows and do fine through early spring cold snaps, the seeds are very small and I do not cover them, just scatter in the area where I want them to grow. The carrot package said they can be planted directly 2-3 weeks before last frost, later additional plantings will insure a summer long supply. Other cold-tolerant plants include radish, parsnips and Swiss chard. To deter curious squirrels who wonder what I have planted in the soil (they know what they have planted), new seed plantings are covered with old screens, oven racks and grills. If string has been used to mark a row, it is removed as soon as seeds germinate because I have untangled poor robins collecting the string for nests. It is also about the time we can start seeds indoors for later transplanting outside. The tomato package says to start indoors 6-8 weeks before moving plants outdoors and we are now at the seven weeks before last frost date in mid May. There's no rush since they won't grow for a while after planting. Seeds may be started in peat pots, egg cartons, etc. I use small paper bathroom cups because they are small and can be written on with the name of the seeds. Holes need to be punched in the bottom for drainage (punch from the inside so edges don't close, use a pencil, ice pick, something pointy). Fill pots with potting soil, add seeds and add water until it comes out the bottom. Keep pots warm and moist until seeds germinate. Once seeds start poking out they need light, either close to a window or under grow lights. This is fun! Enjoy.